20th day of expedition, 30.06.2018. Bukhar, Uzbekistan

Today’s plan is to go fill the petrol in the morning and to find a spare 10-liter gas can
to cross the desert. After that we go to Tudakul lake. Lake Tudakul is the title of a water
reservoir near Bukhar. This reservoir is special because the water in it is very salty with a
touch of bitter caused by different mineral content of the water. Tudakul water reservoir
formed in the desert’s lowland because of water overflow of river Zeravshan. Reservoir was
put into operation in 1968, but in 1977 it was renovated. Its area is 210 square kilometers.
Currently reservoir is the main source for fish. Every day 40 tons of fish are caught, though
locals only eat fish in the months with letter ‘r’ in its title.
It turns out that it’s not that easy to get to the reservoir because of private territories
surrounding it. Because of that we call some big boss of Bukhar who will let us in reservoir’s
resort territory with cafes and good conditions for water activities. The water is really warm
for a swim, its temperature is at least 30 degrees, but it is still better than air temperature,
which is above 40 degrees Celsius.
If we address the driving again, we have seen only a few female drivers in these
countries. Also, after spending some time here, you understand that it makes no difference
from which side you overtake a car, there is no guarantee that an approaching vehicle will
give you way even if you are in your own lane and that a left turn on a four-lane road can be
made from the outside lane. It has to be added that there is no car theft because not so long
ago for this crime you could be shot without a trial. The new government has cancelled this
and wants to change a lot regarding traffic, recognizing that there are serious problems with
the large number of accidents.
Today it is really warm, +42 degrees Celsius. In the evening we walk around the
market where you can see a lot of interesting things, later we are invited to farewell dinner to
restaurant Dolon, where we were greeted by the owner Sukhorb himself. We have really
nice memories of Bukhar. During these three days we have gotten to know Uzbek kitchen,
local culture and everyday ways of doing things. We have to say that this has been the best
welcome in this trip so far and that all thanks to our long-standing Russian friends from the
city far away – Yekaterinburg.
Today we filled all petrol reserves and tomorrow we are moving on in the direction of
Today we really enjoyed Eastern hospitality.

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